Winter
Usually, in the darkness of winter, just before New Year, I take Pea Green to the bottom of the Laughton Hills. There, I moor up and spend a few days, doing very little, usually reading, walking, sleeping and eating. When a tree blocked the navigation in 2024 my plans for this annual jaunt were almost thwarted. Then in 2025/26, for the first time, I didn’t make it to that magical mooring. Instead Pea Green remained at Welford, leaving Charlie-Hopeful and me to hide away. I have missed the time I spend there, and am wondering when I might once more manage a stop at a favourite spot.
About the hills
Leicestershire is, perhaps, not renowned for its high hills, especially those running alongside the canal. Yet, at Laughton the canal snakes around fields, farms and the bottom of gorse covered hills. But, the real treat of the Laughton Hills is that they line only one side of the canal. Opposite, the land drops away into the expanse of the Welland Valley. As a result, if you manage the walk, there are in tremendous 180 rural views from the top.
Winter walk
In winter, the challenge is to leave the tropical warmth of the boat, to walk up the hill. From the towpath the footpath crosses an accommodation bridge over the canal. Next it crosses a muddy arable field before gently rising to a fence and stile. The mud is usually that welly tugging kind, producing good squelches, and scary welly loss moments. At the stile I usually take a peek at the emerging view, before clambering over and upwards to the top. The top field, steep and undulating, is used for pasture. Speckled with gorse bushes and edged with woodland the field runs into the next around the hillside. At the top, on a bright winter’s day the sun, seems purposely and blindingly angled at the hill top. Though more often than not, a sharp biting wind whips up from the valley below.
The views
Despite the wind and blinding sun I find it hard to drag myself away from the panorama and the quiet. Pea Green is a small dot from the hillside. Below, the canal is a twinkling ribbon meandering towards Husbands Bosworth Tunnel to the south. To the north, towards Foxton Locks, the waterway is hidden by the curve of the hillside. Though the best bit is looking out across the patchwork of fields towards the horizon. There, you can see a smattering of church spires marking the skyline, and pinpointing Leicestershire villages. In the winter the dormant, uniform fields are shades of green, edged with skeletal trees and hedges. But, in summer a switch if flipped and the panorama is dotted with the brilliant yellow of oilseed-rape and bursting with greenery.
Summer
Although my winter trip to Laughton has become an annual marker, I try and stop there in summer too. Then the bridge is lined with wildflowers and the mud is less shoe threatening, but the walk brings the challenge of negotiating the cows. Usually kept inside during winter, from late spring the herd zigzags the pasture above the stile, munching on the grass as they go. I have learnt the cows are creatures of habit, and with a bit of spying I can work out when they will be inquisitively blocking the way. Sometimes though, even the best laid plans go wrong, and there have been a couple of occasions when I have met the cows enroute. They particularly like to lurk around the stile, however so far, negotiations with the herd have been friendly.
Beyond the view
At the very top of the hill, beyond the best view the land levels out and there is another stile, leading through a field of sheep, and onwards to Laugton village. In the sheep field to the right a fence edges a steep drop off, filled with trees and full of bird life.
Once as I was walking through the field, looking into the woods and listening to the birds, I almost stood on a furry creature hiding in the grass. I was startled to realise I had almost tripped over a sleeping badger cub. We both jumped in surprise and eyed each other, as I fumbled to take a photograph. Now awake, and probably a bit miffed, the badger scurried away towards the fence and a safe exit. Incredibly, a second cub was curled up in the long grass, and was equally surprised at being woken. Of course such sightings are rare, and usually its the bird life that entertains me, especially in winter.
Bright nights
Obviously, winter is different with its short days and long nights and few boats moving, and those that are seem to be on a mission to get somewhere, so don’t stop. It is one of those mooring spots that generates a feeling of quiet and isolation. Also, with limited light pollution the stars are bright in the sky. I often find myself half out of Pea Green’s hatch shivering in the winter cold, wondering at the sparkling stars.
Laughton Hills in winter, but not this year…
I have felt sad to not make it to the Laughton Hills in winter over the past few weeks. But, equally I have felt I just needed to stop moving and stay put. The challenges of working on the canals in 2025 have left me tired and jaded. Plus, my old Sabb engine hates the cold, and has no heating element to help it start. So, with temperatures dropping I didn’t want to start the new year unable to move the boat. The funny thing is that I know the walk up the hill so well that I can relive it in my mind, and feel the winter sun and the cold. Hopefully, once I start moving the boats again in spring I will be able to make a special stop at a favourite place.
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